Oh, The Green Things Growing
Yes, it’s beginning to smell a lot like spring.
Despite the blustery days and the all-too-frequent false promise of a sunny sky on a chilly day in recent weeks, we are finally beginning to get some “it’s time to throw the windows open” days.
The intoxicating smell of green things growing reminded me that I intended, but forgot, to sign up for my Barberry Hill Farm CSA/Farmshare in Madison. So thank you Mother Nature for the gentle nudge. If you have a farmer nearby who offers a farmshare, now is a good time to inquire and sign up.
While I’m waiting for those farmshare goodies, I was lucky enough to get several bunches of ramps from Edwin Williams Bartlett, who lives in Westbrook. In addition to harvesting ramps in the spring, he and his daughter also are considering forging for morels soon, and they might try their hands at growing some herbs for sale as well. You can find him, and information about what he’s selling, on Facebook.
Ramps, for me, are a true harbinger of spring. This species of wild onion has a mild, garlicky onion scent, beautiful green leaves, tiny white bulbs at the end, and a season that is heartbreakingly short. I usually blanch the leaves and wring them out, then chop them up with the stems and bulbs, then make them into a pesto or compound butter, both of which will last about a week in the fridge or about a month in the freezer. The blanching process is not strictly necessary, but it does help preserve the beautiful green color. Ramps also are wonderful grilled or sautéed with asparagus, and chopped up in scrambled eggs or in deviled eggs.
Ramp season is just about over, but compound butters are a great way to celebrate all of the other fresh-from–the-garden herbs and green things soon coming our way.
To make a compound butter, use a good quality unsalted butter like Plugrá, Kerrygold, Organic Valley, or Vermont Creamery. Herbs like marjoram, thyme, chives, oregano, tarragon, and lemon balm are a great optional add-in. If you want to spice it up a bit, consider chili powder, Aleppo-style pepper, or paprika, but only enough to add a bit of pep. You don’t want to overpower the other ingredients. A splash of lemon or a high-quality balsamic vinegar can help the other ingredients shine, but I probably would use only the spices or the lemon/vinegar as an add-in, not both.
Here is a basic recipe for compound butter, which can be used on steaks, chicken, fish, hamburgers. It also great slathered on a good piece of bread, or mixed in with hot pasta, along with a bit of the pasta water, and a splash of heavy cream.
Master Recipe for Compound Butter
Ingredients
1 stick (½ cup) good quality unsalted butter
¼ cup parsley, scallions, ramps, garlic scapes, basil leaves,
or other finely chopped green thing you like
1 to 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Zest of one lemon (optional)
1 to 2 tablespoons of other herbs that compliment green thing
(optional)
1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon of a spice that compliments
green thing (optional)
A splash of lemon juice or balsamic vinegar (optional)
¼ to ½ teaspoon salt
Directions:
Bring butter to room temperature so that it is very soft, but not melted.
Add in finely chopped green thing and chopped garlic. Add lemon zest if using. Add optional herbs and spices or lemon juice/vinegar. Add a bit of salt, mix everything together by hand or with a few quick pulses of a food processor, being careful not to overprocess, and taste. Add more salt as needed.
Using plastic wrap, form into small tubes and wrap tightly. Then overwrap with parchment paper, and tie both ends. Refrigerate or freeze until ready to use.