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08/26/2021 12:01 AM

Tomatoes, Tomatoes, and Even More Tomatoes


A couple of weeks ago I went to a small party at Washington Park in Groton. It was held outside in one of a half dozen “cabins,” each of which have concrete floors, a few dark-stained columns, good sturdy roofs, and wooden picnic tables with attached seating. It was a very casual party, with pizza, already-barbecued chicken wings, and coolers of beer, wine, soft drinks, and water. Good thing for all of those things, because the humidity was high and the temperature, at 4 p.m. on a Saturday, was spiking in the 90s.

I had a lovely conversation with Joyce Hedrick, wife of the mayor of Groton City, part of Groton. Even though Groton has fewer than 45,000 inhabitants, it has five parts: City of Groton, Town of Groton, Noank, Groton Long Point, and half of Mystic.

Anyway, Joyce and Keith have a vegetable garden. Keith just canned pouches of green beans that week, and Joyce was going to begin making marinara sauce. She wondered if it could be frozen, avoiding the steamy job of canning. I said I roast then freeze tomatoes in late summer, which I thaw for stews and braises and sauces. Tomatoes are so acidic that they can be frozen raw or cooked, whether sliced, chopped or puréed. Of course, the tomatoes can be made into a marinara (chopped and cooked with garlic, onions, and seasoning), although I would wait to add fresh basil before serving.

I often buy half a bushel of Roma tomatoes. On a couple of large sheet pans covered with parchment paper, I cut the tomatoes end to end and place them cut side up on the pans, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and drizzle them with extra-virgin olive oil. If you roast them in a 250-degree oven for two or three hours, then you can pack them in plastic bags and freeze them. But I found this recipe that might be even better. I might double or triple the recipe and freeze it.

Lee White of Old Lyme has been a food editor and restaurant reviewer for more than 25 years. You can email her at leeawhite@aol.com.

Roasted Tomato Sauce

From The Four Season of Pasta, by Nancy Harmon Jenkins and Sara Jenkins (Penguin, New York, 2015)

Yield: 2 to 3 cups sauce, enough for 4 to 6 servings

Ingredients:

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium red onion, sliced not too thin

2 garlic cloves, crushed and coarsely chopped

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon Greek or Sicilian oregano (optional)

About 2 pounds ripe-as-you-can-get tomatoes

Directions

Set oven at 400 degrees.

Spread 2 tablespoons oil over bottom of roasting dish into which tomatoes will fit.

Combine onion and garlic on the dish. Add salt and pepper to taste and oregano if using. Stir vigorously to mix everything together; spread ingredients out to make a layer across the bottom of the dish.

Cut tomatoes in half. Core the stem ends. Sit halves, cut side down, on top of the onion garlic layer. Dribble remaining 6 tablespoons oil over the tops (you may not need all the oil).

Bake 45 minutes to an hour. At the end of that time, remove pan and let tomatoes cool down. Pull off the skins and discard. Combine all roasted ingredients and, if you wish, chop or purée with an immersion blender. Or leave as is—the rustic look can also be lovely.