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Tomatoes Before Sweet Corn

It was a nice week: a little rain, a lot of sunshine, my first trip to the beach, and low humidity. One evening, friends and I had dinner at a restaurant outside under a big tent, and listened to the New London Big Band, minus about six members, play mellow jazz. The decibels of the speakers were just right; it threatened to rain but didn’t; and the food, as usual, was yummy.

I also cooked quite a bit at home, on the grill, and even in the kitchen, since my condo is air conditioned. I also spent some time at two different farm markets. At my CSA, I got carrots, blue green beans, some lettuces, some flowers, and some cheese. At the farm market, I bought some cranberry beans, basil, and tomatoes. I asked whether the tomatoes at yet another farm stand were local, and she said they were their own. “We don’t have many yet, but these are our own,” she explained. I was very surprised; this is the first time I can remember when local tomatoes arrived before sweet corn.

When I got home, I tasted one of the tomatoes and there was no doubt it was local. As I made myself my first summer BLT, I thought what I might make with some of my harvest and I found pasta e fagiole (pasta and beans), one of my old recipes. I made a few substitutions, and on a Sunday afternoon, made the pasta and beans. It was really good, maybe even better than before, since so many of the ingredients were so fresh. If you have air conditioner, make it now. If not, save the recipe for fall or winter.

Lee White of Old Lyme has been a food editor and restaurant reviewer for more than 25 years. You can email her at leeawhite@aol.com.

Pasta e Fagiole

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 small onion, diced

A handful of baby carrots, diced into small pieces

3 stalks celery, diced small

1 pound ground beef (optional)

½ pound pepperoni, thinly sliced (optional)

1 can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

About half of pound of cranberry beans, cooked

About half of pound of blue green beans, cut into 1 inch slices

1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes

(preferably Muir Glen but another will do)

1 small can tomato paste

2 tablespoons basil pesto (optional, but delicious)

2 cups water

salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

½ pound pasta (ditalini, tubetini, or small elbow macaroni),

cooked

freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Romano cheese

In a large heavy-bottomed pot, brown onion, garlic, and carrots in olive oil until light golden. Stir in celery and continue cooking until celery is tender. If using ground beef, add and cook until no longer pink. If using pepperoni, add now. Stir in beans, tomatoes, tomato paste, and water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer, cover, and cook about half an hour, stirring occasionally. Add salt and pepper, to taste, and parsley. Add pasta to soup and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Serve with freshly grated Parmesan or Romano.