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06/17/2020 07:00 AM

Farmers, Farm Markets, Dedicated Customers Work to Support Sustainable Regional Food System


Farmers markets are having to create new systems to keep both vendors and customers safe, including signs, and lines, and, in some cases, the option to pre-order. One of the largest area farmers markets, in New Haven, successfully developed a drive-through only system with a large number of vendors at a local school in New Haven. At the Madison Farmers Market, shown here, informational signs and a one-way foot traffic system was set up. Photo by Pem McNerney/The Source

At the Madison Farmers Market on the Town Green on a recent Friday, Beth and Marco Pellico made their way carefully across the grass, sodden from an ongoing drizzle, balancing three boxes of pizza and bags of food from the vendors, wearing masks on their faces.

They missed the old market.

They missed the good old days, when their kids could frolic in the grass in between eating slices of pizza. The old days when there were cooking demonstrations, and music, and a festival atmosphere that marked the start of the weekend. The old days when a trip to the Friday afternoon market meant a chance to run into old friends and catch up, and maybe make some new friends, and talk about what you were serving at your weekend parties.

But, they said, as much as they missed that, they were glad to support the farmers, happy to be buying their food from local vendors, and they were looking forward to their locally sourced dinner.

And that, says Aaron Taylor of Four Root Farm in East Haddam, who is Madison’s market master this year, is exactly the point.

“We are all heartbroken about these changes,” he says. “We all miss the old ways. A lot of us are farmers market vendors because we love going to farm markets and we love the atmosphere. But right now what is most important is working towards building a safe regional food system. In order to do that, vendors and customers have to both work towards that goal, creating a regional food distribution point that is as safe as it can be.”

That means, for the time being, that, for now, we understand our local farmers market not as a weekend festival, but, rather prioritizing it as an important part of a regional food system.

Taylor’s sentiments are reinforced by experts who warn that the ongoing pandemic is nowhere near to being over, and by recent events that included people being shocked just a few short months ago by intermittent food shortages on local supermarket shelves. Let’s hope it doesn’t happen again but, if it does, we’ll be in a better place if we are in the habit of relying more heavily upon local food sources.

If we help sustain them, they can help sustain us.

“Food is linked to everything if you think about it,” Taylor says. “It’s culture. It touches upon racial and economic justice issues. It’s about our own health and the health of the community. It’s about our economic health and our physical health. This is all tied up in this question: Where does our food come from?”

Taylor encourages people to continue to shop local in local farmers markets, at farm stands on the farms, by supporting local community shares, and by opting for local produce at supermarkets, when possible.

“Think about how you might be willing to pay more money for higher-quality clothes. If quality food at a farmers market costs a little bit more than food from Walmart, there might be a reason for that,” he says. “And in this part of the world, we are really good at growing vegetables April through October. If you live in this part of the world, from April to October, eat a lot of vegetables that come from this part of the world, this time of year.”

And, for those seeking variety in their diet, local farm markets offer just about everything you can imagine: eggs, dairy, cheese, meat, chicken, sausages, a wide array of breads and pastries, cookies, soup, prepared entrees, and ethnic food ranging from Thai to Persian.

Despite the drizzle, the lack of music and children cavorting on the green, and no cooking demonstrations, the Madison Farmers Market proceeded smoothly that Friday.

Kayla Smith and Lisa Richmond of TALK Seafood said it was good to see everyone, and that they look forward to seeing more customers in coming weeks.

“For the first day back, and a rainy day, it wasn’t bad,” Smith said.

The fact that local food is more important than ever apparently has resonated among many, as farm shares at many farms sold out earlier this year than usual. But there are still plenty of places where you can buy locally grown produce and locally made food, including farm markets.

Here are some information about local farm markets, along with a list of vendors and information on what they offer. Note that offerings vary from week to week, and according to the season and what is available.

Farmers Markets

CitySeed Pre-Order Farmers Market

Saturdays 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.

Conte West School, 511 Chapel Street, New Haven

Pre-order and pick up only

Vendors include:

Four Mile River Farm: produce

The Soup Girls: lemon orzo soup with chicken, chickpea salad, white bean and chicken chili, coconut rice pudding, Thai veggie coconut, asian noodle salad, tres leches bread pudding, and vanilla bread pudding with salted caramel glaze

Four Root Farm: depending on the season, arugula, basil, beets, bok choi, broccoli raab, carrots, cauliflower, celeriac, fresh cut flower bouquets, and more

Green Leaf Catering: Persian appetizers including keleh kebab, mirza ghasemi, marinated olives, kashkeh bademjan, spinach borani, and eggplant borani. Also offers apple pie ice cream, saffron and rose ice cream, fresh lime ice cream, orange blossom and peel ice cream, and carrot and cardomom ice cream

Lost Ruby Farm: a wide variety of goat cheeses including black pearl, herb, smoky, smokin’ hot, dessert (with dark Belgian chocolate), garlic, honey lavender, and plain

Two Guys from Woodbridge: a huge selection of greens and microgreens including red kale, shisho microgreens, edible flowers, wasabi microgreens, green sorrel, lolla rossa lettuce, and baby red watercress

Sono Baking Company: baguettes, cinnamon raisin bread, English muffins, pan loafs, cookies, morning pastries, pies and tarts, savory breads, and more

Other vendors include Starlight Gardens, Sugar Maple Farm, Seacoast Mushrooms, Truelove Farms, Waldingfield Farm, and George Hall Farm.

East Haven Farmers’ Market:

8 a.m. to noon. Sundays from July 19 through Oct. 4

East Haven Town Green

For information on vendors, who are still being recruited and vetted, visit “East Haven Farmer’s Market” on Facebook.

Chester Sunday Market

Pre-order for some vendors, and drive-through and pick up market

10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Sundays through Oct. 11

23 Ridge Road

For info, visit chestersundaymarket.Jimdo.com.

Vendors, which may vary each week, include:

Sunset Hill Vineyards: Chardonnay, Sunshine Daydream (orange wine), and Zinfandel

Wave Hill Breads: baked goods

Chatfield Hollow Mushrooms: Pioppini, royal trumpet, maitake, abalone, shitake, and ground mixed mushroom seasoning, all pre-packaged

Deep Hollow Farms: produce

Dondero Orchards: produce

Long Table Farm: produce

Wellstone Farm: produce

Biscotti and Beyond: almond with anise and dried cherries, pecan with dried cranberries, sweet and salty caramel, chocolate, lemon pistachio, and more

Hay House Flowers: produce and cut flowers

Stonewall Apiary Honey: bee products

Maple Breeze Farm: meat, fish, and poultry, and cheese and dairy

Silver Thistle Farm: cheese and dairy including Tapping Reeve from Arethusa Dairy, chevre, burrata, stracciatella, mozzarella, Mount Tom, and Europa.

The Dudley Farm Summer Farmers’ Market:

9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Saturdays through Oct. 31

2351 Durham Road, Guilford

For info, visit dudleyfarm.com.

Mostly Nuts by Back Roads: nuts, seeds, spices, and baked goods

Bitta-Blue Farmstand: vegetables, jams and pickles, eggs, and more

Heliotropic Gardens: plants, perennials, shrubs, and custom artworks

Sweet Sage Bakery: organic breads made with homegrown starter, scones, muffins, bars, and cookies made with certified organic flours from northeast growers

Papa Spyros Olive Oil: extra virgin olive oil, body lotion, cutting boards

Half Mile Acres Farm: USDA beef, sausage, eggs, farm raised roasting chickens sometimes available, homemade maple walnut fudge, and chocolate raspberry fudge (weather permitting)

Maple Grove Farm: sweet corn in season, maple syrup and candy, Indian corn, popcorn on the cob, and seasonal vegetables


Meadow Walk Farm: seasonal vegetables, cut flower bouquets, and occasional specialty products

Also jewelry, floral and wool crafts, painted rocks, alpaca yarn, breakfast and lunch from the owner of Nick’s Place restaurant in Madison, artisanal pastas, handmade baskets, homemade skin care products, pottery, birdhouses, and more.

Madison Farmers’ Market

Traditional retail and some vendors offering pre-order

3 to 6 p.m., Fridays through Thanksgiving

Madison Green

For info, visit www.madisonctfarmersmarket.com

Vendors vary from week to week and include:

Beaver Brook Farm: lamb, roasts, chops, poultry, riccota-based spreads, wool products, and more

Four Root Farm: vegetables, flowers, and seedlings

Frank’s Wood Fired Pizza: pesto pie, plain Jane, pepperoni, pear pizza, margherita, spinach ricotta, Max’s moo-tz, mashed potato, calzone, and more

Newgate Farms: garlic chives, herb chives, salsa, summer soup, tomato sauce, potted herbs and plants, and more

Starlight Gardens: vegetables including carrots, beets, and tomato plants coming soon

Summer Hill Catering: pot pies, entrées, fruit pies, and baked goods

TALK Seafood: fish, seafood including shrimp and scallops

Wave Hill Breads: wide variety of breads and pastries

During the one of the first days of the Madison Farmers Market, there was a steady drizzle, and lines of people holding umbrellas, and wearing masks, and a steady stream of dedicated customers. Photo by Pem McNerney/The Source
Customers who support local farmers are helping to create a sustainable regional food system, says Aaron Taylor, the market manager for the Madison Farmers Market and a farmer from East Haddam.Photo by Pem McNerney/The Source
Detailed instructions were offered at the Madison Farmers Market were offered in an effort to keep both vendors and customers safe. Photo by Pem McNerney/The Source