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03/04/2020 11:01 PMI remember the first time I went to the Fancy Food Show at the Javits Center in New York City. I took the train into the city, grabbed a cab, and arrived at 10 a.m. Even though it is a massive affair, and the biggest food convention in America, I thought I could see everything in one day.
By early afternoon I was bushed and my feet hurt. It was lunch time and I picked up a sandwich
On my way back to the vendors, I saw cookbook authors autographing their books, including this stunning woman laughing and signing her book. It was B. Smith, the iconic restaurateur, model, author, businesswoman, television host, and lifestyle maven.
I picked up a copy of her Entertaining and Cooking for Friends and stood in line. As she signed my book, she asked what I did and where. “I’m a restaurant reviewer in New London, Connecticut.” With a smile as bright as the cavernous light-filled lobby, she suggested I have dinner with her and her husband at their restaurant that evening.
Oh, I wish I could, I said, but I have to get a train to get home.
“Oh, stay at our place in the city and go home tomorrow,” she suggested.
I didn’t, but I have always wished I had.
She was a lovely hostess and presided over at least three restaurants (New York, Union Station in Washington, and the Hamptons). She had a television show for many years. She wrote cookbooks and her first, and my first of hers, is stained with ingredients of recipes I have cooked.
Barbara Smith died at 70 on Feb. 23, in her home in Sag Harbor, New York, with her husband, Dan, by her side. She had suffered with dementia for many years.
People called her “the black Martha Stewart.”
Martha could only wish.
Lee White of Old Lyme has been a food editor and restaurant reviewer for more than 25 years. You can email her at leeawhite@aol.com.
Pineapple Upside-Down Cake
From B. Smith’s Entertaining and Cooking for Friends
by Barbara Smith (Artisan, New York, 1995)
Topping
¼ cup unsalted butter, melted
½ cup firmly packed light-brown sugar
7 slices canned pineapple (reserve ½ cup juice for cake)
13 candied cherries (I like maraschino cherries)
Cake
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
½ cup unsalted butter, softened
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup reserved pineapple juice
Whipped cream, for garnish if you like
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease the sides of a 9- by 13-inch round baking pan with nonstick cooking spray or melted butter.
For the topping: beat the melted butter and brown sugar together in a small bowl. Spread this over the bottom of the prepared baking pan. Arrange 6 pineapple slices around the edge of the pan and one slice in the middle. Place a cherry in the middle of each pineapple slice and the rest between the slices around the edge.
To make the cake: Stir together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ginger, and cloves in a large bowl. In another larger bowl, beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy (I use my big KitchenAid for this for about 4 minutes). Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Using a spatula, alternatively fold in the flour mixture and the heavy cream and pineapple into the butter and sugar mixture until well blended. Spread the batter over the pineapple slices and bake for 1 hour or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Let the cake cool in the pan for 5 minutes. Then run a sharp knife around the edge to loosen the cake, invert a serving plate over the cake pan, and turn the cake and plate over together. Remove the cake pan. Serve warm with whipped cream. (If you have a little time, visit Coffee’s on Route 1 in Old Lyme and pick up a pint of Reed’s ginger ice cream. It is amazing with this cake.)