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09/26/2019 12:01 AM

Ready or Not, Here Comes Fall


As much as I was reluctant to say goodbye to summer, I’m starting to feel ready for fall.

One thing that helped is that I was so pleased with my summer farm share from my local farm that, when offered the option, I continued with the fall.

It is for fewer weeks, and I’m spending less per week than I did for the summer share, so it’s a good deal. And it will include squash, Brussels sprouts, and the like. That means I’ll be making soup, side dishes, and roasted vegetables will all of the autumn and winter veggies I love.

I’m getting ready to make some squash soup, so two weeks ago I ordered another dozen of 32-ounce canning jars. I had a dozen, but I made and gave away that many jars of gazpacho made with my summer veggies earlier this month.

With the new jars on order, I went to my files for recipes. The one I’m sharing with you is Nancy Verde Barr’s recipe. The recipe from Nancy, a friend of mine and cookbook author who lives in Providence, is a real tummy warmer. It calls for canned tomatoes and sweet sausage. I’ll be drawing upon my ever-ready supply of 28-ounce cans of Muir tomatoes. And I have sweet sausage in the freezer.

Fall? I’m ready.

Lee White of Old Lyme has been a food editor and restaurant reviewer for more than 25 years. You can email her at leeawhite@aol.com.

Squash Soup with Sausage and Tomatoes

From Make It Italian by Nancy Verde Barr (Knopf, New York, 2002)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 medium onions, finely chopped

1 small carrot, finely chopped

4 to 5 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

½ pound sweet Italian sausage, casing removed

salt and ½ teaspoon hot red-pepper flakes

3 tablespoons fresh oregano or marjoram or

1 tablespoon dried

1 medium to large butternut squash or any winter squash

(about 2 pounds), peeled and cut into ½-inch dice

(about 5 cups)

2 ½ cups marinara sauce or ½ pound fresh or lightly drained

canned plum tomatoes (about 3 cups chopped)

6 cups unsalted chicken or meat broth

¾ cup coarse-grained yellow cornmeal

about 1 cup freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese

(optional)

Warm oil and add onions, carrot, and garlic. Cook very slowly, over low heat, until ingredients are translucent, about 15 minutes.

Turn up heat, tear sausage into pieces, and drop the pieces into the pan. Work quickly to break down the meat into bits about the size of shelled walnuts halves and cook until it begins to brown.

Stir squash into the pan; season with salt and red pepper flakes and cook for about 8 minutes, until it is evenly warm. Pour in the sauce or tomatoes season, cover the pan, and cook over low heat until squash is just slightly tender, about 5 minutes. Pour in broth, bring to a boil, and then slowly and steadily stir in the polenta or, if you are afraid of lumping, stir in 2 cups of cooled broth into the cornmeal before adding it to the pan. Either way, keep stirring as you add the cornmeal to prevent lumping and sticking. Simmer until squash is tender and the cornmeal is cooked, about 25 minutes. Serve with or without grated cheese.

Variation: Squash Soup with Rice and Tomatoes. Omit sausage from recipe above and replace cornmeal with 1 cup of rice. Cook soup until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes. Serve with cheese.