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08/29/2019 12:01 AM

Butter Beans, Boules, and a Fabulous Potluck


For years I have been part of a big group of friends who play boules, a French game similar to Italian bocce but in a sand or gravel court using small stainless steel boules.

On a recent Sunday we tried to figure out how long we have been playing as a league. A few new members have been added over the years and the original group is a bit smaller and a bit older. We drank a toast to each other, the older, and the newer, younger ones.

Many of us see each other just for the eight or so games in the summer and the Christmas party.

Our recent Sunday gathering was a potluck with appetizers and hors d’oeuvre appearing at two large tables—one for the women, the other for the men, and we played for almost five hours.

For dinner, there was an even bigger buffet with chicken, beef and shrimp skewers, salads of celeriac greens, tomato with goat cheese, a gorgeous homemade pâté, and two different noodle dishes. For dessert, there was a fruit crisp, cheesecake with blueberries, cookies, brownies, ice cream (one chocolate made into individual ramekins by a neighbor).

And, of course, there was wine.

We wondered whether the food at our potluck parties was even more fun than the menu-driven parties we used to do.

I made this recipe. It called for dried butter beans. I followed the recipe and, even after hours of simmering with thyme, oregano and bay leaf, and overnight soaking, I could not get them soft. So I went to the supermarket and bought five cans of Goya butter beans. Maybe all canned butter beans are as creamy and beautiful as the Goya beans are, but I sure would buy that brand again. Also, using them makes the recipe so much easier, so that is the recipe you are reading. But make this recipe before the local, hopefully heirloom, tomatoes are still available. You know me—I could bathe in summer tomatoes!

Lee White of Old Lyme has been a food editor and restaurant reviewer for more than 25 years. You can email her at leeawhite@aol.com.

Big Beans and Tomato Vinaigrette

Very much adapted from a recipe in Bon Appetit, August 2019

Yield: serves 8

4 cans Goya butter beans, drained

Small cheesecloth bag with fresh thyme, fresh oregano, and

two bay leaves

Vinaigrette and assembly

2 pints of cherry tomatoes (I used organic Sun Gold tomatoes)

1 teaspoon minced garlic

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

⅓ cup extras-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Kosher salt (I use sea salt)

4 pounds assorted heirloom, beefsteak and/or cherry tomatoes

Freshly ground black pepper

Handful of basil leaves

Mild red pepper flakes (such as Aleppo-style or Maras),

optional

Place the butter beans in a large bowl, add cold water, and immerse the packet of herbs into the water. This can be chilled overnight. Remove the packet of herbs and toss away.

To make the vinaigrette

Puree the tomatoes in a blender. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in garlic, vinegar, and extra-virgin olive oil; season with salt. Let set 15 to 20 minutes.

Transfer drained beans and the packets of herbs and discard. Add the vinaigrette, toss gently to coat. Taste and add salt, if needed.

Slice, halve, or quarter heirloom tomatoes and arrange a platter or divide among individual plates. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with oil. Spoon beans along with plenty vinaigrette over; salt to taste and top with basil and a few pinches of red pepper (optional).