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07/19/2018 12:01 AM

Nibbles: Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana Tomato Pie


This is almost better than Santa Claus. Right around this time of year, for two months and rarely longer, there is seasonal (read tomato) pizza at Frank Pepe’s. While we can all discuss, argue, wheedle, or whine about it, I have decided that nobody makes better pizza than Pepe’s. And while others say only the original Pepe’s in New Haven is the only great Pepe’s pizzas, I say, you are wrong. All the Pepe’s use coal-fired ovens, all the bottom crusts are blistered, and the few toppings (clam, bacon, pepperoni, veggies) are just fine. But the seasonal pizza, just a little cheese, fresh (mostly local) tomatoes, and a few shards of basil, is nirvana. I just went to the new Pepe’s in Warwick, Rhode Island, twice in one week. The place is gorgeous, the wait staff amazingly nice, and the service quick (because when you smell the aroma, you can barely wait to eat your pizza). As for waiting in line, which is often a problem in New Haven and sometimes at Mohegan Sun, we were seated right away. Hurry before the word gets out.

Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana • 401-825-7776

21 Universal Boulevard, Warwick, Rhode Island

Also in West Hartford, Mohegan Sun, and Waterbury; Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts; and Yonkers, New York