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Nibbles: Red Hen

A couple of weeks ago, the owner of the Red Hen in Virginia asked Sarah Huckabee Sanders to leave her restaurant. Sarah and her friends left. Whether the owner should have done that is moot, but our own Red Hen in Old Saybrook, at marvelous restaurant close to The Kate in Old Saybrook, received vicious phone calls and fake reservations.

Obviously, the nasty calls came from people who failed geography.

When The Day in New London wrote about this, I called friends from Lyme and suggested we have dinner there. And we did. It has been a few years since I’d eaten there and have forgotten how amazingly good the food is. I started with a grilled romaine salad showered with freshly grated Parmesan, but it is the entrée I am still dreaming of: roasted salmon under a bed of asparagus-flecked risotto. Although I rarely order salmon (I worry about where it comes from), this was sensational, and the crispy skin was better than a Cape Cod potato chip (and better for me, too). We will be coming back soon.

—Lee White

Red Hen • 860-388-8818

286 Main Street, Old Saybrook