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01/24/2018 11:01 PMA few Sundays ago, I was invited to a dinner party. The food was incredible, beginning with an appetizer of a seared sea scallop, topped with shredded duck and enveloped with a sunny yellow hollandaise and arugula dressed in subtle vinaigrette. As an intermission, there was glorious white lasagna, which melted in our mouths. The entrée was beef and carrots in Barolo wine, silken mashed potatoes, and fresh green beans with pine nuts. The chef had also sent to our tables of 12 a freshly made bread that had been slow risen for two days before it was put in the oven. There were two desserts—one a cassata (a traditional Sicilian cake) and a soufflé. All the savory dishes were created by Tom Cherry, who spent a lot of time and love on that dinner, although his real job is plastic surgery. The desserts were created by Bette Hu, who calls herself “just a home cook.” Actually, these two may be just “home cooks,” but, truth be told, I am a home cook. These two people are true artists.
I have said before that real chefs can make magic with a few pans, a few sharp knives, and a working stove. While Tom and his wife Lynn have a Viking stove in emerald green with 8 to 10 burners on his cooktop and a few ovens at his disposal, he could do that in my galley kitchen and electric stove. I, on the other hand, would need his Viking to be that proficient. As I left that evening, I tried to figure out how I could sneak that Viking into my car. I couldn’t!
People often ask me what I consider most important to have in a kitchen. In my last house, I could hold 20 people in the kitchen as I cooked, had a 42-inch cooktop with six gas burners, two ovens, and a warming drawer. The granite counter held 10 and part of the counter was four inches below the regular one, so I could make pastry without making my shoulders ache. My pantry took up another room. Today I have a fair amount of counter space and a nice deep kitchen sink, but the cooktop has four electric burners, there are two ovens (but one is very shallow), and most of my pantry is in the hallway closet, along with coats. I have a lot of counter-top appliances, but I have learned how to use those electric burners so that they don’t ruin the good pans I’ve collected over the years. What I need most in my kitchen these days are my knives (on a magnetic bar so the knife block doesn’t take up counter top), those good pans, and Silpat liners for my many, many nested sheet pans, the last of which I use often. In a recent edition of Rachael Ray Everyday, I saw a recipe for a cod that can be made in a sheet pan that fits in my shallow oven
Crispy Cod with Chorizo, White Beans, and Cherry Tomatoes
From Rachael Ray Everyday, February, 2018
Yield: serves 4
2 cans (15 to 15.5 ounces each) cannellini beans, rinsed
8 ounces cherry (or grape) tomatoes, halved
5 ounces cured chorizo, casing removed and meat chopped
into small pieces
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper
Salt and freshly ground pepper, divided
4 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup panko bread crumbs
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley plus
¼ cup chopped coarsely
4 boneless, skinless cod fillets, 5 to 6 ounces each
3 tablespoons tartar sauce
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss beans, tomatoes, chorizo, garlic, and crushed red pepper with 2 tablespoon oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper.
In a shallow bowl, toss panko and 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley and season with salt and pepper. Brush the tops and sides of the cod fillets with tartar sauce. Press the tops and sides of the fillets into the panko mixture until coated. Arrange the fish to the center of the baking sheet. Arrange the bean mixture in an even layer around the fish.
Bake until panko is golden and the fish flakes easily with a fork, 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle with the coarsely chopped parsley and drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil.