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04/27/2017 12:01 AMThe past couple weeks included good news for those of us who love food.
My friend Virginia Willis mentioned on Facebook that Houghton Mifflin Harcourt recently expanded its cookbook and lifestyle programs. Many publishers decided, over the past decade, that readers aren’t interested in cookbooks. I don’t know about you, but I have friends who don’t cook much but love to have cookbooks on their bedside tables and read them before they go to sleep.
In other good news, two cookbook writers I admire have books coming out, both of which I ordered on Amazon. Joan Nathan, who has done more than anyone to bring Jewish cooking to the forefront, just published King Solomon’s Table, and once I try a few of her recipes, I will share one or two with you.
The other I ordered two of (one for me and one for my San Francisco daughter’s birthday) is Susie Middleton’s Simple Green Suppers. The concept of her new book is subtitled “A Fresh Strategy for One-Dish Vegetarian Meals.” This weekend I have friends coming to my house for dinner and two are vegetarian (one will eat seafood and chicken, the other just seafood and, that, rarely). This will be one of my entrées.
Lee White of Old Lyme has been a food editor and restaurant reviewer for more than 25 years. You can email her at leeawhite@aol.com.
Broccoli Rabe and Creamy Goat Cheese Baked Pasta Gratin
From Simple Green Suppers by Susie Middleton
Yield: serves 2 to 3
4 ounces small- to medium pastas, such as gemelli or
small elbows
4 cups roughly chopped tender tops and leaves of
broccoli rabe
1 cup fresh bread crumbs (she likes English muffins)
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons coarsely grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon extra-virgin oliv4e oil
1 ½ cups heavy cream
2 large garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
Freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
2 to 3 ounces fresh goat cheese, crumbled while still cold
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease bottom and sides of a 5- to 6-cup shallow gratin dish with butter. Bring a small (5- to 6-quart) stock pot of salted water to a boil and add the pasta. Cook pasta until just 2 to 3 minutes shy of the suggested time on the package. Add broccoli rabe to the boiling water and cook for 2 or 3 minutes. Drain pasta and rabe in a fine mesh colander. Let sit for a few minutes, tossing occasionally to release water.
In a small bowl, combine bread crumbs, 3 tablespoons Parmesan, olive oil, and a pinch of salt and stir well; then set aside.
In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, bring cream and smashed garlic just to a boil (watch it carefully so it does not suddenly bubble up and overflow). Remove pan from the heat and let sit for 10 minutes to allow garlic to infuse the cream. Remove the garlic cloves (or not!) and season with one-half teaspoon salt, a few grinds of black pepper, and the lemon zest. Stir well.
Put the pasta and broccoli rabe into a medium mixing bowl. Add goat cheese and remaining one-quarter cup Parmesan. Pour the infused cream over the pasta mixture and stir well. Transfer to prepared gratin dish and spread evenly. Top with bread crumb mixture. Bake gratin until crumbs are golden brown and liquid have reduced to below the crumb level (there will be a light brown ring around the edge of the dish), about 35 minutes. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.