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01/18/2017 11:01 PMIt was sad to see that my daughter had forsaken the food lore I had taught her. The first day I stayed at her and Jeff’s new house in California, she rode her bike to get me fresh bagels. They were still fairly warm, so she sliced them and put them, along with ramekins of butter, cream cheese and guacamole left over from last night’s dinner. But, no, it wasn’t the guac that floored me, but the cakey, nearly-no-chew crust.
I do think it will be another generation or two before no one remembers a good bagel. After all, Jewish immigrant bakers’ children went to college and decided to do something other than bake bagels every morning at 4 a.m. In the meantime, there is life after delis. When I can’t get to New York and buy real bagels at Zaro’s at Grand Central, the ones at BJ’s are dense and chewy (and big). They will do. — Lee White