Fried seafood is to New England what apple pie is to the country at large-a nostalgic icon conjuring memories of bare, sandy feet and family togetherness.

Old Saybrook's Mike Urban goes a step further: "Clam shacks in New England are as soothing to the soul as they are to the belly," he writes in his new (and first) book, Clam Shacks: The Ultimate Guide to New England's Most Fantastic Seafood Eateries.

A veteran of the travel-publishing industry, Urban was inspired to write Clam Shacks by his own abiding love for the establishments.

"I've always enjoyed rooting out these down-and-dirty places to eat," he says. "There's a fondness for this stuff in New England. A lot of people have memories of growing up, going to the beach all day, and they had a particular clam shack they went to and they'll bring their kids there, too."

Urban had no trouble finding scores of just these types of eateries when he began his research last summer. Through Googling, his own travels, and calls to chambers of commerce "up and down the coast" alone, he "amassed a list of 75 to 100 places that may have qualified" as clam shacks, according to a set of criteria he tailored along the way.

So, what exactly is a clam shack?

Most are "casual, fiercely independent, [and] family owned and -operated," says Urban.

Beyond that, Urban identifies a set of "shack factors." The two "major qualifiers" are the presence of deep-fried seafood and the opportunity to dine "in the rough-not sitting at a table with a waiter or waitress; giving an order usually at a window." Additional shack factors include "cash-only" operation, a BYO policy, seasonal operation, and outdoor seating.

Lest this seem too scientific, Urban also used a commonsense approach in writing his book: He assessed "the décor and appearance of the place; if it looks like a clam shack and smells like a clam shack, it probably is a clam shack."

Urban ultimately whittled down his list to just more than 50 clam shacks, stretching from Maine to New Hampshire, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, the Connecticut shoreline, and beyond (there's even a list of Canadian clam shacks at the end of the book).

Readers will find local standouts and hidden gems alike in the pages of Clam Shacks, which incorporates a history of each establishment, a sampling of its specialties, and a peek at what makes it unique. Some shacks even share coveted recipes. Not surprisingly, the shoreline is well represented. Area landmarks highlighted are The Place (Guilford), Lenny and Joe's Fish Tale (Madison), The Clam Castle (Madison), and Johnny Ad's Drive-In (Old Saybrook). Further east, there's The Hallmark Drive-In (Old Lyme), Fred's Shanty (New London), Costello's Clam Shack (Noank), The Sea View (Mystic), The Sea Swirl (Mystic), and The Cove Clam Shack (Mystic). And, to the west, there's Chick's Drive-In and Stowe's Seafood, both in West Haven.

While Urban sings the praises of each of these clam shacks, don't ask him to pick a winner among the bunch. Instead, he prizes their individuality. There are, however, some interesting commonalities between the clam shacks' owners.

"A lot of the people that own these places seem to be very wed to them...There's a real passion for these owners for these types of businesses. A lot of them probably could be making a lot more money doing something else, but they enjoy this," he says.

The lack of clam shack chains, adds Urban, also allows the eateries to maintain that all-important hallmark-nostalgic flair.

"As opposed to other restaurants, they don't change the menu or décor every 5 or 10 years."

In fact, the owner of Johnny Ad's, says Urban, was told repeatedly by his customers to never change a single thing about the establishment.

Perhaps it's that sense of reliability that makes clam shacks' appeal so universal. From famous "foodies" Rachael Ray and Bobby Flay to the boy and girl next door, everyone has a favorite place to indulge in the quintessential summertime fare. And why not?

"I'm of the opinion that if you don't eat this stuff all the time-maybe once a month"-it's perfectly fine, says Urban.

Mike Urban will sign copies of Clam Shacks (publication date: June 14), $16.95, on Tuesday, June 21 at 7 p.m. at R.J. Julia Booksellers, 768 Boston Post Road, Madison. Lenny and Joe's will provide complimentary (non-deep-fried) seafood snacks. For more information and to purchase tickets, $5 (which can be used toward the purchase of the book), visit www.rjjulia.com or call 203-245-3959.