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04/08/2017 12:00 AMA cheerful orange and purple sign invites potential diners to check out Good Elephant Bistro in downtown Chester, CT. Bright red tables and chairs on the side patio (also the entrance to the first floor restaurant) beg for fair weather days. This day was threatening, with thunder and dark clouds rolling through. We had reserved a table for two inside, and were happy to sit at the front window to watch for any show by Mother Nature.
As we slid into our u-shaped booth at the front of the restaurant, the French Vietnamese fusion was evident. Vintage upholstery seating and copper-topped tables were accented by ornate lanterns throwing dim lighting, all nodding to a European experience.
With drink menu in hand, my fiancé quickly chose the Good Elephant Manhattan – a blend of rye and bourbon, barrel aged gingered sweet vermouth, and a bourbon infused cherry garnish. I selected a rosé.
The menu offered something unique – one side dedicated to French classics while the opposite was focused on the Vietnamese. We established our plan to try something from each side as we ordered. From the Vietnamese side, gazpacho – pineapple, smoked shrimp, pickled cucumbers, Szechwan chili, avocado & papaya. Beware if you're a spice-wimp – the Szechwan chili gives it a kick! From the French classic side, we selected French Kiss Oysters on the half shell with horseradish root mignonette. (I was a huge fan of the mignonette.)
Then, onto the main courses: From the French, we selected the Pan Roasted Berkshire Pork Chop – topped with spiced peach marmalade, served on a bed of roasted corn and sweet potato succotash. From the Vietnamese, we went for the Good Elephant General Tao's Chicken – made with Thai chilies, honey rice wine, and black vinegar and served with rice.
We shared the dishes. We admired the blend of flavors. And my fiancé said the pork was so good that he forgot to drink his drink (of which he was a huge fan) until he finished dinner.
The owners here are no strangers to good food. Linda and Everett Reid owned and operated Restaurant L&E at this exact location for the past seven years. With a desire to always keep things fresh and interesting for their customers, the pair decided to change things up.
"Our interest in French Vietnamese cuisine was sparked in Paris almost twenty five years ago, when Everett and I were enchanted by our experience of dining at Tan Dinh located at 60, rue de Verneuil 75007 Paris," Linda says. "It had been suggested to us by a friend who was a sommelier on Nantucket."
"It was French and yet it wasn't," Linda continues. "Just as it wasn't only Vietnamese, nor was it simply spicy and sweet. The question 'could we do this' seems to have simmered within us for many years throughout our travels. Whenever we found ourselves in cities on the west and east coast and in Europe, we would seek out the opportunity to experience eating Vietnamese cuisine."
They started carefully, just offering the new menu in their quaint, upstairs dining room in March of 2015. They named it Good Elephant or Bon Voi (Bon=good, in French and Voi=elephant, in Vietnamese). They finally knew the time was right to expand the menu downstairs as well. After renovations, the downstairs restaurant adopted the same name and opened on Friday, Feb. 26, 2016 with a slight variation of the offerings. (Downstairs offers the French classics and the French Vietnamese menu while upstairs is only French Vietnamese due to the smaller kitchen. Assorted small plates are also offered upstairs. Both floors offer al fresco dining options.)
The restaurateurs are dedicated to a positive experience for all, doing their research and taking into consideration vegetarian and gluten-free options.
"Everett and Joe, our accomplished sous chef, have spent many hours studying and cooking, visiting Asian markets and leaning on guidance and influence from the Slanted Door and others in New York City," says Linda. "We felt the offering of a cuisine...that offers a glimpse into Asian culture and flavors, would be welcomed by Chester and the surrounding communities."
The storm never did hit that night. The dark clouds presented a quick sprinkle over Chester's Main Street and then moved along. As the French say, c'est la vie. And if our experience that night is summed up by "that's life," I'm good with it.
Good Elephant Bistro is located at 59 Main Street, Chester, CT. Reservations can be made by calling 860-526-5303 or by visiing www.goodelephantcafe.com.
Editor's Note: Good Elephant is starting a Noodle Night on Wednesdays, similar to its Gourmet Burger Night special on Tuesdays. The special will include different noodle bowls with beef, chicken, vegetarian, or seafood with a glass of house wine or beer. As of press time, the chefs were still working out the details. Call the restaurant for info.