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04/08/2017 12:00 AM

Falling for Autumn Colors


Photo by Kim Tyler

With serene, unadulterated woodlands stretching for miles on either shore, the lower Connecticut River Valley takes center stage in New England's flamboyant fall foliage show. From September through October, there's no shortage of front row seats. Climb aboard for a steam-powered trip by rail to catch a riverboat for stunning views; take an entertaining, brunch-fueled river cruise past the trees, or sign on for a spirited water excursion with an educational twist.

Connecticut River Expeditions

Captain Mark Yuknat has been cruising the lower Connecticut River in various vessels since childhood, so when he says he knows it's "every nook and cranny," he means business. Since 2002, the Yuknat's family-owned and operated Connecticut River Expeditions (CRE) has helped share the river's ecology and natural beauty aboard RiverQuest. The 65-foot passenger vessels runs the river February through October -- a month when plenty of fall foliage cruise dates pop up on CRE's cruise calendar.

As a daily witness to the wealth of flora and fauna along the river, Yuknat keeps an eye peeled for exceptional seasonal opportunities for his passengers to enjoy on every trip. He'll help spy osprey, heron, egrets, and even the river's resident bald eagles. Yuknat was the first on the river to offer late-summer and fall cruises to catch thunderous storms of tree swallows clouding the skies at sunset; RiverQuest Tree Swallow cruises are also available.

But when it comes to taking in the turning leaves, there's no place like the lower Connecticut River Valley; and no better place to see it than from the water, says Yuknat.

"It's the best way to see this unbelievable scenery that we have. We are pretty lucky to have this river as pristine as it is, and sides of the river that have not been built on, like other rivers have. There's lots of protected land, lots of forest," he says.

RiverQuest's fall foliage cruises are generally 60-minute trips taking guests past shores filled native trees dressed in changing leaves. The riot of natural color frames scenic sights and local landmarks including Gillette Castle State Park. Yuknat and his crew share remarks on local history and give a heads up on any native wildlife spotted.

"We're a little different from other cruises in that we have time to stop and look around," adds Yuknat. "We try to add an educational aspect on all our cruises."

He has some binoculars on board for guest use and encourages passengers to bring their own binoculars, as well as cameras. You never know what

RiverQuest may encounter or set off to discover, says Yuknat.

For example, on an early evening cruise in July, "We went out on a mission to look for a couple of bald eagle nests, because even the state of Connecticut was wondering if the eagles were surviving; and if so, how many babies," says Yuknat. "We did find them and reported back to the state."

In addition to plenty of fall foliage cruises available to the general public,

RiverQuest has added a singular opportunity on October 15, when she takes guests on a special circumnavigation of Selden Island, the largest island in Connecticut and a state park. The island's natural, untouched surrounds will be seen from the water, including views from a creek accessible to RiverQuest thanks to her shallow draft.

No matter which cruise they choose, guests aboard

RiverQuest can soak up the local color from her large covered cabin or outdoor deck at the stern (with an optional canopy cover for weather events). RiverQuest launches from Eagle Landing State Park in Haddam. Guests can bring their own food and beverages (alcohol is allowed on every cruise). See all of CRE's offerings aboard RiverQuest, including dates, rates, special events and much more information at www.ctriverquest.com

Lady Katherine Cruises

Proving the company motto, "Everything is better on the water," Lady Katherine Cruises offer popular fall foliage brunch cruises aboard the sleek vessel Mystique, from late September through late October.

The 113-foot long triple-deck boat spans an expansive 29 feet in width. She includes two enclosed climate controlled decks and a large upper observation deck topped by a canopy to shield sun and rain.

"If it's a rainy day, you can still watch the leaves from inside and be 100 percent comfortable with the convenience of modern heating and air conditioning; although I'm one of those people who like to go upstairs when it's raining and be under the canopy," says Nancy Stamler, company spokesperson.

Mystique features beautiful interiors with carpeting and gleaming wood appointments. Brunch is enjoyed at linen-clothed tables set beside vista-grabbing windows. Mystique's fall foliage brunch cruises are scheduled to depart from either Harbor Park (Middletown) or Eagle Landing (Haddam). No matter the date, make sure to arrive hungry.

"The brunch buffet is spectacular," says Stamler. "Chef James is fantastic. He's very creative and takes pride in what he does. All of the food is cooked on board and served on board, fresh."

Chef James and the outgoing crew and wait staff (including two very popular bartenders) also work hard to serve up a good time during the buffet.

"This has been going on for years and years," says Stamler. "The bartenders have been there from very beginning. They're a team, and both of them are characters."

Meanwhile, Mystique glides past the autumn color lighting up the Connecticut River Valley under guidance of Captain Kevin or Captain Mark, says Stamler. The first-name basis is indicative of the welcoming and entertaining atmosphere guests encounter on every trip.

"It's very much a family," says Stamler of the crew.

The company takes pride in Mystique's history, sharing she served as a prominent New York Harbor cruise ship for nearly 20 years before becoming the flagship of Lady Katherine Cruises in 2004.  The company states it's mission is "...to provide the public with an opportunity to access the Connecticut River and enjoy the historic landmarks, birdlife and picturesque sites along the river banks," while helping those aboard each cruise "sense our pride, feel our spirit and embark on a memorable experience."

Fall foliage brunch cruises aboard Mystique include live entertainment to add to the "very relaxing," atmosphere, says Stamler. The round-trip brunch cruises fill two hours, with every minute meant to enhance one of the best seasons to be on this particular stretch of water.

"The fall foliage cruises do sell out, more than any other time of year," says Stamler. "To be on the Connecticut River and see those colors is just amazing."

All rates include gratuity for brunch service; and group rates are available. Families are welcome, with kids under four free and special rates for children 5– 10. On-line booking is recommended at www.ladykatecruises.com; where plenty of additional information about all company offerings, as well as a virtual tour aboard Mystique, can be found.

Essex Steam Train & Riverboat

Offering the only steam railroad and riverboat connection in the United States, Essex Steam Train & Riverboat combines land and water views to create the ultimate fall foliage tour of the lower Connecticut River Valley.

"The train tracks are immersed in the lush landscape with views of open vistas along the route; there's a tidal marsh with great scenery and bird. So even from the train, there's a lot to see, as well as the fall color," says manager Paul Costello.

Costello sometimes operates the steam engine which pulls vintage coaches from the historic 1892 Essex Station, but most of his time is spent piloting the Becky Thatcher. That's the picturesque riverboat picking up steam train passengers at Deep River Landing, where they connect for cruises on the Connecticut River.

With a profile and a name that calls up images of Tom Sawyer's adventures on the Mississippi River, the Becky Thatcher is a 70-foot, semi-enclosed three deck classic riverboat that can comfortably hold as many as 220 passengers on its site-seeing cruises. An open promenade deck tops the Becky Thatcher while views are just as spectacular from her second deck and main deck (both of which are carpeted and windowed). Food and drink is available on board.

The steam train and riverboat combination is one of several fall foliage excursions available to enjoy. The combined two and half hour fall foliage journey starts as the steam train gently rolls passengers through the autumn landscape on vintage coaches. Once aboard the Becky Thatcher, the trip delivers stunning views of the autumn landscape rising up from the water's edge.

Another option is the Steam Train & Riverboat Lunch Excursion, which includes lunch aboard a dining car as passengers head north to connect with a relaxing cruise. There's also the Essex Clipper Dinner Train (with weekend lunch trips added in October), both of which offer leaf peeping without leaving the train. Speaking of which, taking a train trip during an autumn afternoon is a great way to bring the little ones out to see the colors, without the additional time spent on the river, says Costello.

"Either way, it's a great experience," he says.

For those who do want to add the Becky Thatcher to their fall foliage intake, book early, because, as Costello can attest, "...the boat generally sells out during the fall foliage excursions."

In addition to offering regularly-scheduled steam train and riverboat fall foliage trips, this year guests can try a new experience, dubbed the Haddam Special. The special departs during scheduled dates in fall to take guests by train for a day-trip destination stop in Haddam.

"The Haddam Special is a separate train operating to the north end of our line," says Costello. "The point on the line where it stops is opposite on the river from the Goodspeed Opera House."

While the Haddam Special doesn't connect with the Becky Thatcher, day trippers can find things to do such as catching a ride on RiverQuest to drink in more of the fall color, or enjoy a meal at one of the local restaurants before boarding the train again to return Essex later that same day, says Costello.

Also new for this year, the company's extending its popular Friday Night Sunset/Swallow cruise into the fall months of September and October. The idea is to further feature the area's stunning fall foliage as passengers are carried from Essex Station to board the Becky Thatcher for a three-hour cruise. The cruise is capped off with nature's choreography of thousands of Tree Swallows flocking over Goose Island to roost for the night.

To learn more about fall foliage excursions and other offerings from Essex Steam Railroad & Riverboat, and to make reservations, visit

www.essexsteamtrain.com

Photo by Kelley Fryer/elan Magazine
Photo by Roger Charbonneau, Jr.