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Paris in the Springtime

Cole Porter's famous song "I love Paris" has been played and recorded time and again by artists and amateurs alike. The song is simple, almost childlike, in its devotion to the City of Light – so much so that it is easy to overlook the simple truth of the lyrics. But each time the first line rings out "Every time I look down on this timeless town" I just can't help but find myself drawn back to the wonder of a life lived in Paris.

Founded centuries ago, Paris is the capital city of France. Situated in the northern portion of the country, the city, often referred to as the City of Light (La Ville Lumière), is France's finance, culture, and tourism hub. Packed to the brim within the approximately 40 square miles of the immediate city limits, Paris presents itself as the best in culture – from fashion to museums, history to cuisine, and obviously wine.

To a first-time visitor, Paris can be overwhelming. With so many things to see and the constant whizzing of traffic (please be wary of the rogue scooter), it can be difficult to know where to begin. Perhaps the easiest solution is to start in the middle and work your way out. Following the Seine River, which bisects the city into the left and right bank, you can easily hit some of Paris' more famous attractions – starting with the Eiffel Tower on one end and Notre Dame on the other.

The Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, L'Opéra de Paris, the Champs-Élysées, and Notre Dame are among some of the most popular attractions in the city along with the slew of museums. The Louvre is considered to be the most visited museum in the world and home to over 35,000 works of art – including the Mona Lisa who may or may not smile at you depending on how long you are willing to stare at her – and even more artifacts.

But some of the equally famous - but maybe less known to tourists – museums are located in close proximity to the Louvre.  The Musée de l'Orangerie is an art gallery of impressionist and post-impressionist paintings and home to eight Water Lilies murals by Claude Monet. Arranged in a circular room, the Water Lilies create a spectacular viewing experience – one even the most amateur art enthusiast will appreciate.

Across the river is the Musée d'Orsay. A former train station (be sure to look at the clock) the museum is home to masterpieces by Monet, Degas, Renoir, and Van Gogh among many others. Paintings of note include Vincent Van Gogh's Self Portrait, Claude Monet's Rouen Cathedral, and an impressive collection from the French sculptor Auguste Rodin including The Gates of Hell, a massive depiction of Dante's Inferno that would make anyone think twice before sinning.

While the major tourist attractions are always worth a stop and a photo, plenty of other locations such as Les Invalides, Le Jardin du Luxemburg, and the Catacombs are worth a stop. Les Invalides houses the military museum of France and is also the final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte. Buried under a spectacular gold dome and encased in a massive sarcophagus, his resting place is an architectural feat – and a prime location for a napoleon-complex joke.

Le Jardin du Luxembourg, or the Luxembourg Garden, is a fine example of the French fondness for well-manicured gardens and sculptures (including many of French queens). In the spring and summer, it is an excellent place to hear some free music and grab a bite to eat outdoors.

While this stop may not be for everyone, the Catacombs of Paris, a series of massive underground ossuaries, is what one might call a unique experience. Holding the remains of more than six million people, visitors follow the tunnels underground, looking at the millions of artistically arranged bones. Visitors have to climb down several flights of stairs and the ceilings are fairly low but if you are feeling uneasy on your way down, builders of the catacombs do offer one final warning. Before entering the tunnels a sign reading Arrête! C'est ici le Empire de la Mort (Stop! This is the Empire of the Dead) does give pause.

The attractions in Paris are marvels to be sure, but if you want to really see Paris, you need to wander through the neighborhoods. Paris is divided into 22 arrondissements, or districts, that all have their own character. There are many to visit but two of note are the third and the eighteenth. The third is home to older part of Le Marais, sometimes referred to as the city's Jewish quarter. The area boasts numerous boutique shops, smaller museums, old architecture, and some of the best (in my opinion) falafel money can buy.

The 18th is located in the north of the city and home to the famous Montmarte region. Historically known as the artist's region, artists can still be seen all over the streets and squares. Dominated by narrow and sloping streets, the area is filled with picturesque French cafés, shops, and iconic monuments including Sacré Coeur basilica. Located on top of a hill (there are a lot of stairs but there is a trolley if needed), the basilica houses an impressive pipe organ and one of the largest mosaics in the world. And of course the eighteenth includes the famous Moulin Rouge – the birthplace of the modern can-can dance.

When it comes to cuisine the answer is easy – eat and drink everything you can find. Don't be alarmed by the cigarette smoke – the French don't smoke as much as everyone thinks but yes it is legal to smoke in outdoor cafés. Give the metro a go – it's complex but an absolute wonder once you get the hang of it. Most Parisians speak some level of English but make a point of saying "bonjour" (hello) and "merci" (thank you) and see how much further that gets you.

All and all there is a reason Gertrude Stein said, "America is my country and Paris is my hometown" and after just a few moments in the City of Light, you will easily see her point.

Visits Outside Paris

If you are traveling all the way to France, there are several locations outside of Paris worth a stop: Giverny, the home of Claude Monet, includes a museum and free entry to the gardens – giving visitors a chance to witness the artist's inspiration first hand, and the Palace of Versailles are both just a hop away from the city. The Palace of Versailles carries its own historic weight, but if you make the trip, be sure to wander deep into the gardens. The notorious Marie Antoinette had a rustic retreat built on the edge of the grounds – a poignant reminder that while she was hated in her later years, she was just a young girl when she came to court.

This last stop would require a day trip, but is something that needs to be seen: the D-day Beaches in Normandy. Trains run from Paris to multiple locations in Normandy and buses, cars, or bikes can take you the rest of the way to Omaha Beach and the American Cemetery. Located on the bluff above the sea, the cemetery stretches on, with gravestones as far as the eye can see. Visitors can walk down on the beaches and see the remains of ships and U-boats as the tide runs out. It is a sight that not even I, someone whose entire profession centers on the English language, can ever fully describe.