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All the Wright Touches

Owners Jonathan and Meredith Rapp opened Wright's Steakhouse in the historic Wright house in Centerbrook in May of 2016 in the space formerly occupied by Gabrielle's restaurant. You might know the husband and wife team from their other thriving restaurants, the River Tavern and Otto Pizza, both in Chester, and the popular Dinners at the Farm events all over the shoreline region.

After a busy opening, the restaurant is hitting its stride, and this winter the Rapps decided to expand their eatery's menu (and clientele) with more offerings from its wood-fired grill and a few more non-steak-centered dishes, plus more snack options at the bar and a children's menu (complete with mini filets and pizza made from Otto dough).

"We really want people to feel that it's a fun, vibrant, approachable restaurant," says Meredith Rapp of what is now Wright's Bar & Wood-fired Grill.

Part of the fun will include live music on Friday and Saturday nights in addition to the standing music night on Thursday. Rapp assures customers that the music will be low-key and won't interfere with conversation. Ditto for another new addition: two televisions, that will be muted, tucked in the quieter end of the bar.

What won't change is the restaurant's high-quality food and focus on local ingredients, and that includes local oysters at the raw bar. While no longer a steakhouse per se, Wright's will continue to offer steaks from its signature grill, but the grill menu now includes more chicken, pork, and seafood dishes and more burger options.

The advantage of a wood-fired grill is added flavor nuance; items cooked over a wood fire present subtle smoky notes that brighten the overall flavor of the dish.

"It really imparts a special, unique flavor that just sets us apart," Rapp notes.

On a recent visit, samplings of the house burger and the very popular steak frites met with raves all around the table. Both dishes sported juicy, flavorful beef and excellent supporting ingredients; a burger really is best served on a brioche roll, after all, and hand-cut French fries will make any meal memorable.

And for those who really enjoy a good burger, Wright's now offers the option to double or even triple up on the hand-ground patties. Several topping options are available now, too — think eggs, avocado, cheeses and charcuterie items, and more.

Specials will be available, too, and look for seasonal changes to the cocktail menu, curated by bar manager Dan DeCristoforo who also selects the bar's beers, including approximately 12 brews on tap. The extensive wine list also will include more wines by the glass and bottle at lower price points. Mr. Rapp selects all the wines himself.

"He has a great palate," his wife notes.

If the cocktails we sampled are any indicator, they will pair well with the patio that the Rapps intend to install in front of the restaurant this spring. If you think all Cosmopolitans are created equal, try Dan-O's Cosmo at Wright's, where the popular vodka cocktail is mixed with elderflower liquor, "a hint" of Grand Marnier, and fresh cranberry puree with lime.

Of course, the interior of Wright's is equally inviting as the prospect of a patio. With its red accent walls and bar stools, the cavernous dining area is chic and yet still cozy — perhaps an imprint left by the Wright family. The pops of color and long lines accentuate the golden brown of the expansive bar, tables, and benches, which were crafted by Jason Dixon of Durham. Adding a touch of kitsch to some tables are former school chairs acquired from Get Back, a Connecticut company that specializes in reclaimed American industrial furnishings.

We recently shared dinner with friends in a corner of the dining area, and thanks to intimate lighting details and several throw pillows on a cushioned bench we had a tough time extracting ourselves from the table to head home. The outstanding food helped. Once we sampled our meatball appetizers — a delicious mix of baked meatballs with a great spicy flavor, three cheeses, and bright, flavorful tomato sauce — we were in for the duration. We suspect we'll be in good company as more people discover this hidden gem in the beautiful Connecticut River Valley.

Wright's Bar & Wood-fired Grill, serving lunch, dinner, and bar snacks, is at 78 Main St., Centerbrook. For menus, specials, fun details about the Wright family and house, and more, visit www.wrightssteak.com. To make a reservation, call (860) 767-2440.