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72 Hours in Marrakech

The idea of describing a city first and foremost by its color seems a bit strange, but after mere seconds staring at the skyline of Marrakech, red is the only word I could use to describe the city. From the sandstone buildings, to the burning sun rising over the desert, to the overwhelming passion of the city's culture, one of Morocco's oldest cities can only be called the "Red City".

Founded over 1,000 years ago, Marrakech is possibly the most prominent of Morocco's former imperial cities. Situated in the central region of the country, nestled in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, the city brings together the best of its traditional and imperial history.

The city is divided into and old and new section. The old section, known as the Medina, is fortified by miles of red walls enclosing hundreds of markets and stalls. The new section of the city, known as the Guéliz, is a direct result of French imperialism in the region from the early 1900s until 1956. Wide streets, shopping, and cafés dominate the Guéliz, but to experience the heart and history of the city, one has to wander into the Medina.

Within the Medina there are a series of important buildings certainly worth a visit. Towering over the city is the Koutoubia Mosque. Built in the 12th century, the call to prayer rings out from the building five times a day. While non- Muslims are not allowed to enter the building, its architecture is certainly worth a picture.

Marrakech is predominately Muslim so many of its impressive buildings are closely tied with the religion. The Koranic School Medrasa Ben Youssef was once the largest theological college but is now open to tourists. Visitors can wander through the old dorms of the building that once housed over 900 students of Islam and take in the unique architecture, dominated by ornate cedar woodworking, mosaics, and carved stucco. The Saadian Tombs, only opened to the public in 1917, also offer a unique architectural experience. The tombs, the final resting place of Saadian rulers, are comprised of three rooms. There is generally a line to get in, but a chance to view the rooms, often described as the most beautiful in Marrakech, are definitely worth the wait.

Situated in the heart of the Medina is Jemaa el-Fna, or The Square. Filled to the brim with merchants, singers, magicians, and locals, the square is the pulse point of the old city. Wandering through the square with the assistance of a local guide (which I highly recommend as my guide, Abdell, offered much more insight into the culture and highlights of the market beyond what the eye can see), I saw local residents doing their weekly shopping, buying everything from fruit and spices to (very) fresh meat.

There are plenty of things to eat in the square, but for a fun dining experience, check out the rooftop restaurants situated around the square. There, diners can enjoy traditional Moroccan cuisine, dominated by a variety of spices, and often served in tagines – clay pots that facilitate steam cooking – while overlooking the busy market.

While the square offers a snapshot of a longstanding way of life in Marrakech, it offers plenty touristic elements as well – the most notable being the snake charmers. The charmers are located all over the square and draw in voyeurs to witness the pacification of some of the world's most poisonous animals. But be warned, the closer you get to the snakes, the more people will heckle you for money to take their picture. I, for one, refused to get close. Having always been afraid of snakes, being in close proximity with a cobra strongly triggered my fight or flight response – an urge that was not calmed by the fact that my guide decided to tell me that a cobra actually bit and killed a snake charmer earlier this year...

But if you can get past the fear of wandering past some snakes, the Souks, a large traditional Berber - indigenous North African peoples - market characterized by miles of stalls located on the edge of the square; offer some of the most unique shopping and dinning experiences in the city. Visitors can buy everything from scarves, to spices, to carpets, to traditional ironware. The spice stalls are always worth a look – you can buy saffron in bulk at such a discount it would shock most Americans - but the herboriste shops located throughout the souks are an experience all their own.

The herboriste shops offer holistic products from herbs, to spices, to essential oils for almost any aliment on earth. I visited the Herboriste La Sagesee located deep in the souks – the farther into the souks you go the greater chance you have of getting lost, but you are also likely to find the older, and more authentic merchants – and was treated to a presentation of different ancient healing methods. Argon Oil was a big focus as the woman told me about how it can be used for everything from hair care to arthritis. I will fully admit to being a big fan of western medicine and having suffered from back pain for years, I have tried every injection and steroid you can think of, but when the herboriste applied argon oil to my back, I was truly amazed by the sudden pain relief and needless to say, the herboriste made a quick sale.

While there is a lot to see in the city, a trip out to the desert and the Atlas Mountains is not to be missed. In the desert, visitors have the chance to ride camels (which is nothing like riding a horse) and see how people have managed to survive and thrive off of the rather barren earth.

About an hour outside the city by car, the mountains destroyed any ignorant ideas I had about the desert being flat and brown. Flush with flora and fauna, the mountains and valleys are a rich green, and in the winter, dusted with snow. Throughout the mountains there are numerous hiking trails offering visitors a chance to explore the land and visit some of the more traditional Berber villages scattered along throughout the mountains.

Marrakech is by far the most eye-opening and extraordinary place I have ever been. From the land to the people, the city has a life all its own and is a worthy a visit for anyone looking for a bit of adventure.

Tips for Travel

As a popular tourist destination for the British and the French, numerous flights on major and discount airlines can be taken from London or Paris to reach the city. Arabic is the primary language of Marrakech, but as a result of French imperialism and heavy tourism, it is not hard to find someone who also speaks French or English as well.

Being a desert city, weather is also a big consideration for travel. Fall and spring are the best seasons to go, with temperatures reaching the low 80s during the day and the mid 60s at night. The high point of summer would be a bit much for most travelers – the temperature spiked to 56 degrees Celsius, or close to 132 degrees Fahrenheit this year.

While it can get warm, it is a Muslim country, and conservative dress – for men but mainly women- is advised if only to avoid being heckled. I saw plenty of people wearing shorts to be sure, but I found myself more comfortable wearing long pants or skirts. As a woman, at no point was I asked nor did I feel the need to cover my head, but in places like the souks or the markets, which are heaving with visitors and animals, closed-toed shoes would be advised.